June 16

Not enough sleep seems to be my new normal but it still isn't fun! I had to wake up at the horrible time of six o'clock and could barely drag myself out of bed to eat breakfast with Uziel, Katia, and Alison (Joyce, the lucky duck, gets to sleep in until 7:30 - or later!). Uziel made us some fried eggs which we had on chapla which is traditional Peruvian bread that we've been having all this time. It is super puffy but not actually that fluffy.
At the school we helped the music teacher. We sang "Try Everything" by Shakira and I also played Fur Elise on the keyboard. The kids loved it! We ended up following the music teacher to the next class as well and we taught them "Twinkle twinkle" in English and the Cups song from Pitch Perfect. It was so fun and the kids loved it so much! The music teacher also said we can visit his parents house and play their violins which would be awesome!

Teaching "Twinkle Twinkle Little Star"

After lunch with Uziel we went to INABIF where we taught the kids to make crocodiles with their hands. We also let them ride on our backs and also grabbed their hands and spun them around with their feet off the ground. It's superfun for them but such a workout! And after you do it once there is no stopping the relentless mob of eager kids! By the end my hair was like a bird's nest from all the kids' hands.

The kids at INABIF pull out another fantastic hairstyle

We went back to the restaurant and helped the family shelling peas. When Mama Dorris saw my hair she practically fainted, but then committed herself to straightening it out. She was still working on it when we had finished with the peas! I chatted to a woman from the restaurant, Soledad, and tried to speak some Quechua but I just couldn't get my tongue around the words! Alison could say the words really well.

Alison, Joan-Pierre, Katia, one of the restaurant worker's kids, and Mama Dorris

The biggest carrots EVER

Soledad accompanied us to the market to buy some food for dinner and some pom-poms for Katia's class, and we saw one of the children from the school which was really nice. The market was packed and noisy and the smell from the meat stall was pretty bad. The markets here are more rustic than those in Cusco.

We dwarf Katia. She calls us her kids even though we are all sooo different.

Alison and I are ALWAYS matching, it's becoming a thing.

Us and Soledad

A cool arch

Yet another church

Market!

We get locked into the market...

Supermarket with Katia and Uziel

Joyce finds her soulmate

Smells like home

For dinner we made hamburgers which took a while because Katia and Uziel have only one two-burner camping stove at the moment. Our patties turned out a bit cumbly but we added lettuce, tomato, squeaky cheese, egg, and fried platino which was delicious! Even though it was hard to eat it was soooo good! We went to bed feeling full and happy.

June 15 and we move

Today is moving day to the new host family. We wouldn't move until the afternoon but I packed up in anticipation in the morning and went to work. The teachers here are much more strict than in the US! The students have to follow strict rules even in my art class. I also got to help out in the kindergarten which was so cute! The kids were adorable! One boy named Thiago asked me to make a crab out of clay, and once I figured out that cangrejo meant crab, I did, and he made up a whole story about a crab and a turtle which was so cute!

The three year olds

My crab

Alison gets her hair braided. The kids keep asking why her hair is such a strange color!

We had lunch with the family, which was awkward, then went to INABIF. I made the mistake of letting one of the kids ride on my back and then for the rest of the time mobs of eager kids followed me around wanting me to "Cargo yo!", "Cargo yo!" Carry me! Carry me! By the end I felt like an old grandma with a broken back and my arms were really sore!

Then we went home and said our goodbyes, said thanks for having us, and nervously we got a taxi to our new home.

The view from our new house

Our new home is a car wash. Literally the building that houses our new host family, Katia and Uziel, is right next to where they wash the cars. It's a two story house with no wifi and cold water, but Katia and Uziel are soooo nice! We live in a detached bedroom, but eat all together.

Joyce decends the hellish stairs

Our door doesn't close! Yikes! Not even Uziel (our new host dad) can get it closed

For dinner we went to the restaurant of Uziel's mother, which is called Mono Sazon where we met one of his four sisters, her two kids, his nephew, his nephew in spirit, and Mama Dorris, the matriarch of the family and owner of the restaurant. Everyone was incredibly nice and I already feel like part of the family!

After dinner we went home and had coffee in the small kitchenette and Uziel and Katia taught us a local salsa-like dance called Cumbia which was so fun! Joyce who's been taking ballet classes for 12 years also taught us the basics of ballet which was so fun!

June 14 Ouch

The sickness that Alison started to have last night flared up full strength today for both of us. We spent the night running to the bathroom and then running back to our room to get horizontal again. In the morning we were barely up before noon. We hardly had the energy to moan to each other how terribly we both felt, but it was such a comfort to have someone there who was going through the same thing. The grandma came in and kept trying to get us to eat and we didn't have the energy to convince her that we couldn't. Upon seeing I was also sick she went out and bought a pill of some sort and tried to get me to take it with hot water. Alison tried to explain to her that it would dissolve but again to no avail. When Joyce researched it, the pill turned out to be for tachycardia, or irregular heart beat, which was disconcerting to say the least. We are all pretty sure Alison and I have food poisoning, we think our hearts are fine!
Joyce also said that in a weird turn of events Nicole had stopped being able to hear out of her right ear upon arrival in Lima and a doctor had grounded her for a day so that she could go and get a check-up, which really sucks for her. We hope her hearing problem is not serious and she can soon be on her way home.
Back in Ayacucho we have decided the three of us will all move to a new host house as we have had some problems here. I called my parents and also talked to the volunteer organisation and we will move tomorrow. I hope I did the right thing in setting in motion the process to get us moved, but it is great that we can all still be together.

June 13th and we lose a Musketeer

Today Nicole is leaving, which is crazy. Even though we've actually only known each other for a little over a week, when you spend twenty four hours a day together you still get to know them really well. She's spunky and confident and always stands up for what she wants which we all rely on now whenever we go out anywhere. She's feeling terrible though and her grandma and mom have been researching webMD and have come to all kinds of ghastly conclusions and want her home ASAP. It was so hard to say goodbye but we're already planning a reunion!

Joyce teaches us the basics of ballet

I woke up feeling refreshed from the weekend, but my morning job at Gunter Grass was meh. Eleonora is gone! Which is so sad. In her place a teacher called Jacky has just returned after having a baby. However she only had one class this morning and it wasn't until 11 so I said that I might be able to help out in a math class. The math class turned out to be more of a lecture and I was no help. It was pretty interesting though as the class was geometry, but because no one has a calculator in the school they don't use SOH CAH TOA and instead find everything out by drawing different shapes and moving angles around. It can get very complicated! The last class I had was an English lesson with the talkative, late thirties Jacky and I finally thought I could be useful. However instead of being able to help with pronunciation she put on CD which had another American say the words. I didn't mind too much but I spent the entire day feeling entirely useless. I even considered switching jobs.

In the afternoon I went to INABIF and spent a lot of my time teaching English and playing chess. While playing with one kid, if he started to lose he would make up rules that he would assure me is 'how they play in Peru' such as that the pawn can move sideways or the horse diagonally. Or that in Check you can't move any piece on the board except your king! However at the end he told me I was a real expert and offered me his chess set which was so touching! I told him he should keep it so he could practice and work up to beating me.

When we returned home Alison didn't feel well and went to sleep, while a miscommunication with Rudy meant that Joyce didn't have a Spanish lesson when she thought she did. There have been a lot of miscommunications lately. When Nicole was leaving, Rudy thought Joyce was Nicole and told her he would take her to the airport for her 5 o'clock flight. He then banged on the door at 5 am, waking them all up even though the flight was at 5 pm - and waking them up at 5am would have been too late to catch a 5am flight anyway!

After a dinner of bread Joyce and I went back up to my room. Things had gotten a lot worse for Alison. She had a fever and was super nauseous. She said it felt like food poisoning. Joyce said she had had the same thing a few days ago and had spent the next day throwing up at least six times. Yikes! Also none of the family had noticed she was sick which kind of sucked. I went and got Merilyn who went and got Rudy who went and got some antibiotics and Gatorade which was nice of him. After a long call to Alison's drug developer mom Alison decided to take Cipro. By this point I was starting to feel like Alison, only I was only a few hours behind so I took Cipro too in the hopes of being better tomorrow.

June 12

Again we woke up far, far too soon, this time to the pop pop popping sound of fireworks at six am. It's a common sound here, I think that people here are just perpetually partying but I also read somewhere that in the favellas of Brazil, gangs use fireworks to warn members about an oncoming police raid, so I really hope it's not that. By 9:20 all four volunteers were at the plaza ready to go on a tour into the countryside.

Alison, Joyce, and me

On our way there we saw yet another parade in the plaza, there must be one a day if not more here! The van that took us was small and the driver was crazy. He almost got us into a crash when he tried to overtake on a corner and another car came around it, but luckily there was room for three cars side by side. Yikes! It was cool to see what the country looked like outside the city. Ayacucho is nestled in high, dry, Sierra mountains that are covered in brown grass and huge cactii. The tour guide explained how most of this mountainous land was controlled by the infamous Shinning Path gang group, and brutally so. Uncooperative police officers could have their tongues cut out, be tortured and then killed. Even now it's not a good idea to go roaming through the countryside at night.

A giant stone used for animal sacrifices

A tree they call the little fat girl! Also a hallucinogen

Each notch in this religious building was a shrine to a god

The mausoleum where people were buried in the fetal position

We then arrived at the Wari ruins. The Wari were the first people to successfully survive in this harsh landscape, and their empire not only survived but thrived, with the ruins showing a capital city of 20,000 inhabitants, a complicated belief system involving animal sacrifices, and a mausoleum four stories deep where the most important people like the King would be buried with human sacrifices. The Wari were also masters of stone work which helped them move around the all too precious water. In contrast the hills were so rich in precious metals that they were considered no more precious than scarce wood. Nicole started feeling really bad almost at the start of the tour and went back to the bus. Joyce, Alison and I were still in the ruins when the bus was supposed to leave and had to sprint back to make it. It is really hard to run at 10,000 feet!

The Wari were such masters at stone work they could cut stone beads just a centimeter across

Hello creepy skeleton

The second stop was the small artisan village of Quinoa, and it was very quaint and touristy. Then we went up, up, up this mountain to the site of an old battle between Peruvian Patriots and Loyalists who were loyal to the Spanish crown, who had conquered Peru for themselves centuries ago. The 1842 battle pitted brother against brother with the patriots winning a decisive victory. We had a low point though when we realized the 'lunch' was just a row of street food vendors, something that foreigners definitely can't eat for fear of food poisoning. We ended up eating one granola bar between four of us which was slim pickings.

The artisan village of Quinoa

The obelisk, weirdly gigantic in the isolated countryside

Peaceful enough to do yoga. On a hike by the Obelisk.

After our return to Ayacucho we went to get dinner with a girl we'd met on the bus. Her name is Ava and she's 25, she had just quit her job to travel through South America for six months. Wow, that's the dream life! She told us in Bolivia she had biked death road which was really impressive. And in Cusco she had been in taxi that had run over a local girl! Luckily she seemed okay when the taxi driver took her to the hospital. We were shocked, there have been many close calls here on the streets but to hear that things like this actually happen are terrifying! We also talked a lot about running as she is a seven time half marathon and a marathon finisher! Wow impressive! It's also impressive to be traveling by yourself here!

Dinner with Ava, Alison, Nicole, Joyce, and me. Yay girls!

At dinner things did not improve for Nicole and she called her parents. She had been feeling sick for her entire two weeks stay, and this was the final straw. Her parents booked her a flight to go home the next day so she could see a doctor. We were all shocked and saddened, she had originally planned to stay a whole week longer, but she was pretty sick.
After dinner we went to a market in Ayacucho that sprung up in an old disused prison, with every cell now a different store! I bought a new bag that I really liked!

The ex-carcel market

My newly acquired bag!

Another parade

Definitely should NOT be driving!

We also saw yet another parade. Then we said goodbye to Ava and returned home exhausted, but the best kind of exhausted.

This mountain was considered a god, or apu, by the Wari

June 11 and we really need to get some more sleep

After almost no sleep we were awoken by my least favorite animal - the rooster - after only a mere five hours of sleep! We were so tired, but I had arranged to meet my English teacher from the school I work at, Gunter Grass, at the plaza to do yoga together. Apparently she's a yoga teacher! We were of course late and by the time the meeting time of ten o'clock rolled around we were still in the mottotaxi on our way there. We then went for our first run here in Peru as we sprinted through the three block no mottotaxi zone around the plaza and got to the restaurant at 10:15. Eleonora wasn't there and we were mortified that she might have thought we weren't coming! We stood outside for five minutes with our heads in our hands, then she came running down the other street! We were so relieved! Yay for mutual lateness! Then she took us to the rented apartment of her 18 year old brother and his kid. I said I couldn't imagine being a mother at my age, and she said her either (she's in her thirties). She also has seven other siblings which is impressive. Families here are a lot larger, especially the poorer ones.

Yoga

The yoga was intense. Eleonora trained as a yoga instructor in a yoga school in Cusco. At the school they did yoga from 3 am to 9 pm at night for an entire month, with only thirty minute breaks for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The yoga class today was two hours long and by the end my legs were jello. It was also a big day for Eleonora as she was recovering from a terrible sickness in which both of her legs mysteriously became covered in bruises and were super painful, and she lost over 35 pounds. No doctor could determine what it was and after a month she eventually got better on her own. This was the first day she had returned to practice yoga.

After the yoga we went back to the house for lunch and then we went out to meet Katia in the plaza at 2:30 to help her volunteer at a youth center in the upper regions of Ayacucho. We had to take a bus to get there and it was a pretty scary ride!

The bus ride

The bus was packed and I was so tall compared to most people in Peru that I couldn't even see out of the windows when I stood up. The average height here is 5'4''!

The sprawling city

Ayacucho from high up

The kids at the youth center

The kids at the youth center were putting on a play that would be performed in a festival with four other centers in July. The play is an Incan take on Hanzel and Gretel. The Incan Sun God, Inti, and his two children go down to Mother Earth (Pachamama) and are trapped in a house made of food by a witch wanting revenge on Inti. The children escape with the help of the Sierra animals the condor (the messenger to Inti), the fox and the skunk, before they escape back to the sky.

The sunset

After another harrowing bus ride back down, Katia took us to her mother-in-law's restaurant where we got to meet her husband Uziel, and her adorable niece and nephew Valeria and Valentino.

Katia and Uziel

Katia and Uziel are such a cute couple, she's so energetic and bubbly and he's so calm and cool, they balance each other out very well. Also on our way to the restaurant Katia saw someone she knew outside a church. He was playing accompaniment for a wedding and even let us play the piano in the church!

Eleonora had also invited us to dinner and so after eating a little bit at Katia's we ran to meet Eleonora in the plaza. It's almost like we have divorced parents that are fighting over custody. Which isn't a bad thing :). Eleonora and her friends took us to a cool small restaurant/bar. Her friends are all in their thirties but we all got along really well. Besides us there were two guys, George and Luis. Luis said he was a soccer player and I asked what he thought about Peru's chances in the Copa America as they were facing off against Brazil next. He said he didn't think they were good. We told him to have faith but he said there was a difference between faith and reality. Peru later went on to win! After yet another late night we returned home after 11 and collapsed. We really need to get some more sleep!

We found this huge bear which was the same color as Alison's top

Alison has been getting a lot of bug bites on her ankles!

Bug bites